26.04. – 12.05.2025
After our short journey through Russia, we now continue through Kazakhstan.
Via Atyrau and Aqtöbe, we pass the Aral Sea on our way to Turkistan, then continue through Shymkent to the Uzbek border.
In Tashkent, Uzbekistan, we have a date for a children’s birthday party on May 4th, so we have 7 days to cover 2,500 km, meaning about 350 km per day. We’re not just rushing because of the birthday—after the unexpectedly long time we spent in Georgia, we want to make up some time so we can cross China in June.
Our first goal in Kazakhstan is finally seeing the Caspian Sea.
We drive along a rough sand track to a parking area. According to our map app, we’re already in the water, but we can’t see any. Just sand dunes and camels as far as the eye can see. Maybe go a little further? And boom—our front wheels are stuck in the sand. Great.
We start digging. What begins as a fun challenge quickly loses its appeal after the third failed attempt to get out. To make matters worse, I start getting stomach pains.
We try everything: we nearly empty out the entire camper to make it lighter, we use cloths, wood, a threaded rod, even the ladder from the alcove as traction boards. Philip removes the urine canister from the toilet to wet the sand. We empty the water tank. Nothing works.
And then I urgently need to go to the bathroom. I didn’t realize the canister had been removed. You can guess the rest – Toilet Disaster Part 2!
Finally, we get lucky: an off-road vehicle with Kazakh soldiers drives by. They pull with their 4×4 and push from behind – and Lucas the motorhome is free! We’d never have managed on our own.
The stress takes a toll on Philip too, so we both collapse in the camper for the rest of the afternoon while the kids play outside. With a plastic bag, some string, and two forks, they make a kite!
The next morning, we try again to find the Caspian Sea – on foot this time.
No chance – we’d have to walk for hours to even see the water.
On the way to Atyrau, we have our next mishap:
We forgot to close the kitchen window! We only realize it when a particularly strong gust of wind rips it off while driving.
Philip makes a quick fix using the same piece of wood we had used just hours earlier as makeshift sand tracks.
In Atyrau, we refill our water supply and enjoy a walk through town and a coffee to shake off the stress of the past few days. Feeling refreshed, we continue on to Aqtöbe.
Across endless steppe landscapes, past oil pumps, camels, and horse herds, through small villages and on relatively good roads, we rack up the kilometers.
We see flocks of sheep, cattle, and goats, endlessly long freight trains, and lively little ground squirrels. The landscape is monotonous yet spectacular – you can see forever. It’s boring, and yet not.
At night: silence, stars, cicadas.
In Aqtöbe, we explore a shopping mall – after all, we have not one, but two birthdays to celebrate in Tashkent!
First, for our little Swiss friend from the caravan (who already joined us for the lioness’s birthday in Kurko Woods), and then the next day, our Panda turns ten.
So on we go!
Past the underwhelming Aral Sea (we don’t even see it – it’s dried up so much!) to Baikonur, home of the Russian spaceport. You can’t really visit it unless you apply months in advance and pay a fortune, but at the entrance there’s a small rocket exhibit that’s worth a photo stop!
We push on through Kazakhstan until we reach Turkistan, and find ourselves in an oasis! It’s hot, but so colorful – green trees, red roses, blue-tiled grand buildings! Timur built here, he practiced before creating his signature city of Samarkand.
Back on the road, we pass Shymkent and reach the Uzbek border in the evening.
We hope that the later hour means less traffic – but we’re totally wrong. There’s already a big traffic jam, and we’re stuck in it immediately. We can see the border buildings, so we’re optimistic it won’t take long. Nope – five hours in traffic!
The kids and I go to bed, Philip dozes in the driver’s seat. Nothing is moving.
Then we’re woken up – it’s happening! Around 11 PM we’re at passport control. The kids and I must get out and walk the passenger route. I wrongly assume we can rejoin the camper afterward.
Everyone throws a hoodie over their pajamas, I grab the passports, and we cross the border on foot.
We can’t get back to the camper. After the Kazakh checkpoint, we must go directly to the Uzbek one. We get our stamps quickly and are in Uzbekistan. Surely Philip will be along shortly?
He doesn’t come.
Not at midnight. Not at 2 AM. Not even at 5 AM, when dawn breaks.
We start to freeze, the kids are shivering. I force them to walk laps near the border fence to stay warm. Soon they’re hungry and thirsty. I don’t even have any money on me.
Bus after bus crosses the border. People around us come and go. Only we remain. Philip is still not in sight.
When we’re too tired to walk, we position ourselves at the fence, barely keeping our eyes open. No Lucas, no Philip.
A young man takes pity and gives the kids his coat – it helps a lot!
Another man gives me his jacket – I’ve rarely been so grateful. His name is Jura. He stays with us and we talk. The sun rises and it gets warmer. We return the coats. Jura buys the kids sweet tea and invites us to visit him in Bukhara, if Philip ever makes it across.
Finally, we see the camper at the border! We’re thrilled!
But too soon – it takes another two hours before Philip is finally let through at 8 AM. Jura has long since left.
It was the worst border crossing – probably the worst night I’ve ever had.
We sleep two hours in the parking lot while Philip sorts out car insurance and a SIM card. He was able to nap in the camper while waiting.
Then we continue – it’s already May 4th – time for the birthday party!
The final stretch is a struggle. It’s hot, and the lioness refuses to keep driving even for one more minute. We stop and get somsa (Uzbek filled pastries). She refuses to eat, drink, or get back in the camper. It’s all too much.
Somehow, we get her back in, with some effort, we coax her into nibbling on a few strawberries and drive the last two hours to our friends’ gorgeous river campsite.
What a reunion!
Kasia and Mikkel, the Swiss with their caravan, and the fire truck crew we briefly met in Kutaisi are here!
We set up a real camp – even roll out the awning.
There’s strawberry cake, fruit, juice, cookies, a dip in the river, and unlimited playtime!
The hardship was worth it. Everyone shares stories of their journey. We sit together for hours, enjoying the company.
Then it’s Panda’s big day – double digits!
Two cakes, so many presents, swimming in the lake, and pasta salad for dinner – what more could one want?
Next stop: a lake, where we hope for more shade – it’s getting hotter!
The camp spirit continues: we set up hammocks, a slackline, and an inflatable boat. The kids play with the fire truck dogs in the lake. Panda tries out his new art supplies. It’s idyllic.
A group of local men shows up and invites us to dinner. We explain we can’t just pack up and leave camp, so they insist on bringing food.
They return with two large servings of plov – rice with carrots and lamb.
By now, our group has grown – another Dutch camper has joined. Some have already cooked, some don’t eat meat, someone has an allergy. The men seem offended not everyone eats. With a translator, hand gestures, and effort, we explain. Those who do eat enjoy it – it’s delicious and we have a good chat.
To return the favor, we offer beer and an opened bottle of vodka.
The mood is good – until it turns.
One man wants us all to come to his home. It’s late, we have already started on getting the kids to bed. Packing up now isn’t an option. Philip tries to explain, but the man suddenly gets angry and demands $200 for the food.
We’re shocked – way too much! It’s not about the money, it’s the way it’s being demanded.
We pool together $30, which is more than enough for local prices. The man’s friends seem embarrassed – one walks off after an argument. They don’t seem to agree with asking for money.
Apparently, beer and vodka were a bad idea.
Eventually, they all leave in their van.
We go to bed feeling uneasy – will they come back?
They don’t. We spend a peaceful night.
Instead, Philip gets a text: an apology from the man – he was drunk, he says.
Still, we don’t want to stay. We head off to Samarkand, the magical city from One Thousand and One Nights.
We find parking and walk into the city, see the famous Registan with its three madrasas, stroll the grand avenue to the main market, and visit the splendid mausoleums.
Samarkand is impressive – but also scorching hot and crowded with tourists.
Soon it’s too much. We escape to cooler, mountainous Tajikistan.
We leave Uzbekistan with mixed feelings. The cities are amazing, but the roads are the worst of our trip and the failed hospitality left me deeply shaken.
Since then, I’ve been avoiding interactions with locals. Sounds harsh and unfair? Maybe. But I never want to experience a situation like that again.
I’m already looking forward to returning to Kazakhstan before we cross into China. The country and people were wonderfully easygoing. Roads were wide and good, it was easy to find a place to sleep, and the people were friendly without being pushy.
Now we’re heading into the mountains and lakes of Tajikistan, a totally different landscape.
We’re especially looking forward to solitude and cooler temperatures!